There are many different types of ring “settings”. Each setting holds the stone in place using a different technique.
A bezel setting is one of the most popular setting types. This technique uses a metal hoop that squeezes the stone from all sides, essentially creating a thick border around the stone itself.
It’s very different from a prong setting, which uses tiny pins to hold the stone down. Not only is it a more secure setting method, but the metal border also adds a few millimeters to the width of the ring, making it appear larger.
Some people seem to think that bezel set diamonds don’t sparkle as much as prong set rings. But, that’s not the case. Bezel set rings are just as sparkly as rings with other setting types.
A diamond’s sparkle quality is determined by its cut and clarity, not the setting. If you’re looking for a sparkly diamond, you should buy one with a “brilliant” cut and a few inclusions. The setting is practically irrelevant in regards to how much a diamond sparkles.
In some cases, a bezel setting can make a diamond look bigger than it really is.
Typically, this optical illusion occurs because of the metal border that holds the diamond in place. This border adds some width to the ring that bells out on the sides of the band. So, the stone appears to protrude outward in a way that a prong-set ring does not.
Of course, the setting doesn’t make the ring look that much bigger. But it definitely adds a millimeter or two.
If you walk into a jewelry store, you’ll notice that there are both bezel set rings and half-bezel rings.
What’s the difference?
Well, they’re actually pretty similar. The main difference is how high the metal bezel extends up the sides of the diamond. A full bezel encompasses all of the sides of the stone and wraps around its top edges. A half-bezel, on the other hand, extends only halfway up the sides.